The coast, where most of the population live, is a mix of coconut palms and calypso music, Dutch place names and techniques for draining the land, Hindu temples and Islamic mosques, all of which reflect the chequered history of the country.
The thinly populated interior is different again, with life revolving around the rivers in the tropical forest, or, further south, the scattered ranches of the Rupununi Savannah. The improvement of the road from Georgetown to Lethem on the Brazilian border, with a minibus service, opens up the interior for easier exploration, but this area remains largely untouched, with many places reached by river boat or plane. Waterfalls tumble over jasper rocks, or, at Kaieteur, into a chasm almost five times the height of Niagara.
Other highlights include the Orinduik Falls on the border with Brazil and the Iwokrama Rainforest Reserve, with the Iwokrama Canopy Walkway. Travelling on any of the rivers, many with excellent beaches, is the most interesting way to get around. On the coast are turtle-nesting grounds and sea defences. You can stay at working ranches and secluded resorts. At all times, expect superb nature watching.